Mile End, the Montreal-style Jewish delicatessen that has been packed with smoked-meat fanatics ever since it opened a couple of years ago in Brooklyn’s Boerum Hill neighborhood, gave me and my daughters a truly memorable feast, a seven-dish meaty and pickly extravaganza which the three of us still talk about to this day. You should go there, to Mile End deli in Brooklyn. It is excellent.
But if Brooklyn’s not your thing, or if you’re looking for a quick bite in the East Village/Noho area, now Mile End’s Noah Bernamoff and Rae Cohen have opened a spin-off of sorts, Mile End Sandwich, an all-day counter-service spot on cobblestoned Bond Street in Manhattan that focuses, unsurprisingly, on the foundation of any good deli–Jewish, Montreal-style Jewish, or otherwise–the sandwich.
The Mile End Sandwich menu features more than a dozen between-the-bread classics, freshly made with prime ingredients and plenty of love. My partner and I stopped in early in the evening on a recent Saturday, marking Mile End Sandwich’s first Manhattan weekend by wolfing down a couple of old favorites.
I ordered the Mile End Sandwich Smoked Meat Deluxe, and it was outstanding, the pastrami-ish brisket tender and fatty and full of sweetish, smoky flavor, on rye, naturally, and with a hit or two of mustard.
I upgraded my Deluxe by a few bucks to get a boatload of that Montreal cult-favorite poutine–french fries covered in brown gravy and studded with cheese curds–which I love almost always, and especially here at Mile End.
The fries are maybe just average, but the gravy elevates the spuds to a must-get. My companion opted for the Chopped Liver, a generous slather of smooth, rich organ meat topped with pickled eggs and parsley and served, traditionally enough, on an onionish pletzel.
Everything was good at Mile End Sandwich, just as it is at the original Mile End deli in Brooklyn; the music was loud, indie and fun (befitting the eatery’s home, hard by Manhattan’s newest party zone, Bowery above Houston); the staff all friendly and cool; the eating counter wide and zig-zaggy (there are no chairs at Mile End Sandwich); the whole experience worth repeating dozens of nights and days in the future.
Next time? Beef on Weck and Chicken Salad. Mile End Sandwich is located on Bond Street ini Manhattan, between Bowery and Lafayette, and is open daily from 8:00 a.m. (the breakfast sandwiches sound awesome) to 12:00 midnight. Here’s a look at the Mile End Sandwich menu. Those in or venturing to Brooklyn can check out the Mile End deli location at 97 Hoyt Street.
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